The Feast of Apicius — Sat. Oct. 20, 2018

Join Winfield Farm and Grimm’s Bluff winery at the “Feast of Apicius” on October 20, 2018 from 2-5 pm in Fleischmann Auditorium at the Santa Barbara Natural History Museum. This delicious wine + food pairing event is the first of its kind in Santa Barbara as it honors the epicure Apicius renown for his hedonistic pursuit of the finest cuisine. Apicius inspired the world’s first cookbook, written in 1st century Rome.

Bruce will be serving Asian Mangalitsa Meatballs with Ginger Honey sauce, infused with Grimm’s Bluff Sauvignon Blanc wine.

The Feast of Apicius
Saturday, October 20, 2-5 pm
Fleischmann Auditorium, Santa Barbara Museum of Natural History
Price: $50.00 /per person. Proceeds benefit the Museum
Tickets must be purchased in advance: Apicius2018

The Neglected Harvest: Acorns

With 41 million Americans facing hunger currently, the search for solutions is constant – all but a scarce few are overlooking the abundant yet neglected harvest many communities fail to see outside their doorsteps despite their very real hunger. America’s acorns could be feeding millions – directly and indirectly. Acorns have long been eaten by people and animals all over the northern hemisphere – there’s nothing to stop us from eating them again or using them to raise animals. For example, some of the finest prosciutto comes from acorn-fed free-roaming Iberico pigs in Spain. Instead of acorns being a landscaping nuisance, we need to embrace them for what they are: hyper-local, nutrient-dense, gluten-free, perennial, wild-foraged food!

The Miracle Acorn

Acorns don’t come every year: instead they form masts, massive yields that occur in intervals every two to a dozen years. You might have a nut tree in your yard like a pistachio that alternates the years it fruits. This large yield allows for an easy harvest and processing, which requires only drying and leaching of the tannins. It is rare, but sometimes an oak tree grows acorns that has no tannins – it is a sweet acorn! We all can gather our own acorns, process them, and eat them or feed them to our animals. You don’t need to be an expert on acorns to gather enough acorns for an entire year within a few hours with a rake and dustpan. It truly is a natural abundance during those mast years!

Imagine gathering all your flour needs for the year in one afternoon. It’s similar to the way hunters take home one or two deer in a few weekends of hunting and save on buying meat from the store the entire winter or even next year. Natural abundance has that kind of ability – it’s what gave early humans the free time to imagine, reflect, and invent new ways of thinking and being. We could be leveraging natural abundances that are already in place to fight hunger and free ourselves from annual grains by embracing the perennial foods already in place.

Living on Acorns

For several seasons now, Winfield Farm’s Bruce Steele has been only eating food grown and raised on his farm as part of a challenge that he and a friend took upon themselves. He relies on acorns in his diet, and he’s planning on scaling up even more by growing oak trees to raise acorns to feed his Mangalitsa pigs which he sells for meat and uses their lard for biodiesel to run his farm in tandem with solar power.

Bruce Steele shares his insights here on drying, leaching, processing, researching, and using acorns:

After collecting acorns you need to spread them out and dry them. This process takes a couple months. Acorns that are cracked or acorns that try to germinate will spoil and need to be thrown away. Sun drying is ideal, but acorns need to be moved indoors if rain or fog threaten. Acorns that fall early in autumn have better drying conditions than acorns that fall later during rain season. Acorns that have dried will separate from the shell and facilitate ease of use with the Davebuilt nutcracker. The nutmeat needs to be separated from the shells, a somewhat time consuming part of processing acorns, but it is during this process that you need to sort out any spoiled or moldy nuts.

The next step is rehydrating the nutmeat overnight with some water in a refrigerator. They can then be a put into a blender (one cup meats and two cups water) and blended into a wet cornmeal consistency. The nutmeat and water are then transferred into one quart mason jars and put back into the refrigerator. Once a day, pour off the liquid but be careful to not pour out the white layer of starch that floats above the blended nutmeat – you can use a natural fiber cheesecloth to do this. After you’ve drained off the tannin-rich liquid, add fresh water. Repeat this process until when you hold a bit of the acorn mush in your mouth, it isn’t bitter at all. This can take 3 – 10 days depending on your acorn type. This is called cold water leaching.

Different acorns require different amounts of time for leaching. Holm oak needs fewer days of leaching than native California oaks. If you can locate Holm oaks, I would suggest using them. There are many different types of oak trees and acorns – you need to experiment with each type to determine how long they take to remove the bitter tannins. This step is critical to making acorn flour for human consumption. If you have access to California black oaks that live at above 3,500 feet in the Sierra then you should try to collect and process them because they were favored by Native American tribes.

I have processed California Live Oak, valley oaks, cork oaks, holm oaks, and Gambel oaks from Arizona. Black oaks are a good species to target. In Arizona there is a species of sweet oak with very low tannins called Emory oaks. All of these western oak species can be processed into acorn flour, but some take more leaching time than others, and some just taste better when you are done.

Once you have finished the leaching process, pass the water, white starch, and nut meat through a strainer, and keep the water: it will have the white starch in it. You can wait till the starch settles and decant the water. This is the part of acorns that the Koreans use for Dotorimuk (Korean acorn jelly). It is very useful as a thickener and can be utilized much like cornstarch. The strained nutmeat can be spread thinly onto a cookie sheet and sun dried. Once dry, a flour mill will turn the dried nutmeat into acorn flour.

Bruce’s methods are just one way to process acorns for food purposes – there are several other ways to do it: you can even leave the acorns in a net bag in a stream for 3-7 days to let the tannins flow out that way! Learning to use your acorn products requires some experimentation in various recipes. Acorn flour has no glutens and will not rise like wheat flour. Some people mix it with wheat flour for cakes or cookies, but if you are using it as a gluten-free flour, then you need to experiment with using beaten egg whites to lighten cookie, cake, or pancake recipes. If you don’t want to use eggs, you could use any other binder you choose. Mark Salter, acorn aficionado, has tried and likes tapioca starch, arrowroot starch, and even cattail starch!

The Oaken Future

While you may not have an oak tree in your yard, your area likely has some, and if not, there’s likely an indigenous edible equivalent in your area that is being similarly neglected. The native oak savanna is an assembly of interrelated species, not just the acorn-bearing canopy tree. As we embrace the cornerstone of an ecosystem and food system that worked in concert, we will see the return of other beneficial species for medicine, fiber, and food. By supporting the oak savanna and native biodiversity, we support so much of what the oaken savanna generated and protected.

When you crack open an acorn, you are participating in a long tradition that spans the northern hemisphere, and one that can open the door to end hunger, break off our reliance upon industrialized agriculture, and embrace an abundant world of wild foods and foraging abundance!

Here’s the article as a PDF, as seen in Issue 09 of Permaculture Magazine.

Lardo is latest darling of animal-fat movement

The Italian fatback finds its way onto salumi plates, burgers and tacos across the US

Fatphobes had better fasten their seatbelts: lardo has landed.

Not to be confused with conventional lard, lardo is indeed fatback, but it’s fatback of a sublime nature. A national treasure in Italy, Lardo di Colonnata is a designated heritage food that’s made from cosseted hogs fed a diet of forest nuts, then cured for months with herbs and spices in special containers made of Carrara marble. After curing, it makes its tissue-thin and toothsome appearance on salumi plates around that country.

It’s not surprising, perhaps, to find it at home, at high-end restaurants here like Rare Steak and Seafood in Washington, D.C., where it’s part of the Pork Tasting appetizer, alongside paté and chicharrón. It’s another thing altogether to see it as a hamburger topper, as has been the case at Farm Burger in Atlanta.

Unctuous in texture and mild in flavor, it plays well with other ingredients. At Cultivar in Boston, the Heritage Headcheese is served with smoked peaches and lemon verbena-whipped lardo. At Seattle’s Staple & Fancy, it made an unexpected appearance in the Baby Beets and Watermelon Salad with lardo and pistachio. It has also made the menu at Le Farfalle in Charleston, S.C., where the special Stringozzi alla Spoletina pasta entrée was finished with lardo and tomato sauce.

It has found a niche in bread baskets, too. Belcampo Meat Co., a restaurant-cum-butchery with seven locations in California, offers bread service with lardo butter, while trendy RPM Italian in Washington, D.C., serves rosemary focaccia with whipped lardo. In a similarly starchy vein, at Speedy Romeo, a next-gen pizza emporium in New York City, whipped lardo tops coal-baked potatoes on the special Triple Crown catering menu.

Lardo has also turned up in some unexpected places, like B.S. Taqueria, which boasts “authentically inauthentic fare” in Los Angeles, of which the Clam and Lardo Tacos is a good example. The sophisticated Lardo-Wrapped Langoustine with white asparagus at Oriole, Chicago’s fine-dining mecca, is another. And somewhere in between is the Little Piggy Muffin from New York’s Dominique Ansel Bakery that’s served with a thin slice of lardo melted over the top.

BS Tacqueria’s clam and lardo tacos

The interest in lardo has an all-American cognate, as lard has come back into vogue in restaurant kitchens as well. For many chefs and bakers, of course, it never went out of fashion. Pastry chefs consider it a pie-crust prerequisite, many Southern cooks add a dollop to make their biscuits extra flaky, and it’s SOP at Mexican restaurants, where manteca, or lard, adds depth of flavor and mouthfeel to standards like refried beans and tortillas.

A new generation of operators has succumbed to its fatty charms, like popular, two-unit Bang Bang Pie & Biscuits in Chicago, which boasts that the “leaf lard for our signature pastry crust is rendered specifically for us by our friends at Smoking Goose.” Leaf lard is the highest grade of lard, taken from inside the loin, and it has an especially mild flavor. At nearby Big Jones, the menu pays homage to the people, places and history of the South with dishes like the award-winning fried chicken that is cooked in a combination of leaf lard, ham drippings and clarified butter.

Speaking of homages, Lardo, an OG of the Portland, Ore., food-cart scene, boasts that “it worships at the altar of swine and proudly celebrates its excesses.” The resulting swine-heavy sandwich list has included a Double Burger with lardo alongside the Pork Meatball Banh Mi and Korean Pork Shoulder Sandwich, all of which can be enjoyed with a side of Crispy Pigs Ears with fennel salt or Lardo Fries fried in rendered fatback.

Considering that animal fats have been well and truly stigmatized for the past 50 years, it’s ironic that lard, along with beef tallow, duck fat and chicken schmaltz, is currently climbing the charts on hipster menus around the country. It happens that it is the beneficiary of a unique confluence of factors, including the dramatic fall from grace of trans fats; the rise of the nose-to-tail movement, which has embraced previously discarded pig parts; and, especially, the rediscovery of animal fats by Millennials, especially Millennial parents, who prize their clean, additive-free labels.

There’s a kind of back-to-the-future vibe that would make their great-grandmothers proud.


Original post: http://www.restaurant-hospitality.com/food-trends/lardo-latest-darling-animal-fat-movement

COCHON 555 — MARCH 11, 2018

COCHON 555 RETURNS TO LA

MARCH 11 AT THE VICEROY HOTEL, SANTA MONICA

 

LOS ANGELES (February 13, 2018)

If you love a good cause and want to attend one of the country’s most talked about culinary events, then clear your weekend calendar when Cochon555 returns to Los Angeles on March 11, 2018 at the incredible Viceroy Santa Monica. Imagine an elaborate 30-course, stand-up, super sustainable dinner featuring amazing beverages where you get to help pick the best bite from some of the best local chefs.

This year’s all-star cast of chefs – who specialize in whole animal cooking and are paired with farmers responsibly raising delicious heritage breed pigs – include Sammy Monsour of Preux & Proper, Brian Redzikowski of Kettner Exchange, Thomas Bille of Otium, Lord Maynard Llera of Mason and Hugo Bolanos of Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air. Butcher Michael Puglisi of Electric City Butcher rounds out a stellar lineup.

We at Winfield Farm are delighted to partner this year with Executive Chef Hugo Bolanos (@hugoalejandrobolanos) of Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel Air. On March 1 we will deliver a 200-pound heritage Mangalitsa from which Chef Hugo will make 6 magical dishes.

To win the friendly competition for a cause, a chef’s menu must woo twenty celebrity judges with their “Judge’s Plate” scored on utilization; technique; and overall flavor and be voted “best bite of the day” by guests.  The winning “Prince or Princess of Pork” in Los Angeles will advance to the national finale, Grand Cochon, a head-to-tail, winner-takes-all showdown for the crown in Chicago on September 30th.

The ultimate aim of Cochon555 is to provide education to chefs and consumers and create experiences that guests can sink their teeth into: honest food from real farmers. The goal is to raise the bar on building a sustainable and profitable relationship for brands and chefs participating in culinary festivals. For an in-depth look at the distinguished providers behind the Cochon555 movement, to view a video, and to purchase tickets, please visit http://cochon555.com/us-tour/2018-la/

Tickets for general admission start at $130; VIP tickets (early admission + exclusive access to cocktail competition and allocated wines and spirits) are $200.

Where: Viceroy Santa Monica – 1819 Ocean Ave, Santa Monica, CA 90401

When: Sunday, March 11

Time: 4 p.m. for VIP entry, 5 p.m. for General Admission

History of the Mangalitsa

 The name Mangalica” means “roll-shaped,” it could be from the Serbo-croatischem mangala svinija pig that is well fed“, “Mangulica” or Mangulac easy fat becomingor by the Romanian mancare eatmay be derived.


Many names are used for the Mangalitsa, his races and crossbreds: Mangalitsa, wool haired pig, curly-haired pig, Baris and Ordas (crossbred) or Bogauner (Bakony ancestor of Mangalitsa). In different countries are different spellings for Mangaltiza:

 Mangalica (Hungarian), Mangulica (Serbian), Mangalita (rum), Mangalitsa (AmE), Mangulac, Mangaliza, Mangalicza. The races of the Mangalitsa pigs (Hungarian Blonde Mangalitsa) in Hungarian Szöke, Fecskehasu (Hungarian Mangalitsa swallowbellied) and Voros called (Hungarian Red Mangalitsa).

The primary breeding in Kisjeno has pioneered this development. A document from 1833 shows involved the transportation of twelve Schumadinka (Sumadija, Sumadia) fat pigs (2/10) as bred in Topscider, Belgrade, the Serbian Prince Milos Obrenovic, the Palatine of Hungary, Joseph Anton Johann of Austria in its Dömäne Kisjeno. This Milospigs” were paired with Szalontai and Bakonypigs. Their descendants became the basis for subsequent fat pig breeding. The bloodKisjeno” spread all over the numerous breeding flocks in Hungary.

Mangalitza as the leading lard type breed, the products of this pig fueled mainly the population of the Austro-Hungarian EmpireThe reason of his popularity was the fat.  After a long time runner, the pigs were fattened up to 250 to 300 kg,. 20 to 25cm backfat not uncommon.

Before the introduction of the Danube Steam Navigation and construction of rail shipments of pig farms they had to bring the pigs to the Vienna slaughterhouses in weeklong walks by feed.  1871, 38.330 fat pigs from Gyor and Sopron were driven to the Vienna market.

In the 1890s in Budpest a pig market system and the pig slaughter house was built. Hungarian livestock census in 1895 showed a population of 6,447,143 pigs (MATLEKOVITS 1900; Tormay 1896). 94% of them belonged to the lard type pig.

Hungary with 407 pigs per 1000 inhabitants, the country with the most pigs in Europe. 1894 73% to Central and Western Europe were exported.

This first golden age of Hungarian fat pig breeding ended in 1895 introduced from America, swine plague, export restrictions and rival, foreign pig meat breeds. The stock recovered only in 1911, but was again decimated in the war years.

 In 1927, the Hungarian National Association of Fat Pig Breeders (Mangalicatenyésztok Országos Egyesülete, MOE) established and recognized the Mangalitsa pig officially as a separate breed. The Mangalitsa experienced after the Second World War, a new boom. The number of registered breeding pigs increased by 1943 to 30.000 pieces.

From the 50s of the 20th Century, the demand for pork products changed radically and pig breeds with lean meat quality supplanted the Mangalitsa pig. During the late seventies industrial pig established with imported pig meat breeds and standardized health conditions in warehouses, the Mangalitsa pig was maintained only in zoos or occasionally by small farmers for their own use.

In 1973, the Mangalitsa in Hungary was placed under protection and introduced a subsidized gene reserve breed. Until 1980 within 10 farms it was possible to rebuilt a breeding line of the three race options: Blonde, Red and swallowbellied

Only an export agreement with Spain for the production of Serrano ham (Jamón Serrano) from 1990 caused an economic boom of Mangalitzas.


Originally posted: https://www.mangalitzainternational.org/